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momo:start [2019/07/07 17:56]
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momo:start [2019/07/07 18:19] (nykyinen)
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Rivi 11: Rivi 11:
 Things you'll need: Things you'll need:
  
-{{:​momo:​start_momo.jpg?​direct&320|}} {{:​momo:​start_gp.jpg?​direct&320|}}+|{{:​momo:​start_momo.jpg?​direct|}}|{{:​momo:​start_gp.jpg?​direct|}}|
  
 Logitech Momo Force wheel and Logitech Force GP/GT wheel Logitech Momo Force wheel and Logitech Force GP/GT wheel
Rivi 27: Rivi 27:
 After a while, you should have the circuit boards of both wheels removed. Then you need to remove the ST72632 chips in both boards, like this: After a while, you should have the circuit boards of both wheels removed. Then you need to remove the ST72632 chips in both boards, like this:
  
-{{:​momo:​pcb.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​pcb.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 The Momo chip is labeled ST72632M1/​NCI,​ GP/GT chip is labeled ST72632M1/​LNS. At least the LNS-chip must be removed so cleanly that it can be re-soldered. The Momo chip is labeled ST72632M1/​NCI,​ GP/GT chip is labeled ST72632M1/​LNS. At least the LNS-chip must be removed so cleanly that it can be re-soldered.
Rivi 35: Rivi 35:
 As you probably have guessed already, the next step is to solder the ST72632M1/​LNS chip to the Momo PCB. This way, PS2 and GT4 will think there is a Force GP wheel connected. The chips have slighty different pinouts. The exact pinouts are explained in a [[momo/​pinouts|separate document]], but you don't need to understand that if you just follow the instructions. :) As you probably have guessed already, the next step is to solder the ST72632M1/​LNS chip to the Momo PCB. This way, PS2 and GT4 will think there is a Force GP wheel connected. The chips have slighty different pinouts. The exact pinouts are explained in a [[momo/​pinouts|separate document]], but you don't need to understand that if you just follow the instructions. :)
  
-{{:​momo:​mods_top.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​mods_top.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 Picture above shows the GP Force chip soldered into the Momo PCB, and shows the required modifications on the top side of the PCB. Picture above shows the GP Force chip soldered into the Momo PCB, and shows the required modifications on the top side of the PCB.
Rivi 43: Rivi 43:
 Also some modifications are needed on the bottom side: Also some modifications are needed on the bottom side:
  
-{{:​momo:​mods_btm.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​mods_btm.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 Cut traces starting from pins 1 and 2 from the white connector. Cut two thick traces starting from the D25 connector, and connect those pins with wires as shown above.. Cut traces starting from pins 1 and 2 from the white connector. Cut two thick traces starting from the D25 connector, and connect those pins with wires as shown above..
Rivi 51: Rivi 51:
 The wires that go to the big white connector are nearly all in wrong order. So, remove the pins from the connector, like this: The wires that go to the big white connector are nearly all in wrong order. So, remove the pins from the connector, like this:
  
-{{:​momo:​conn_before.jpg?​direct&320|}} {{:​momo:​conn_wires.jpg?​direct&320|}}+|{{:​momo:​conn_before.jpg?​direct|}}|{{:​momo:​conn_wires.jpg?​direct|}}|
  
 The pins come out quite easily, just bend the plastic clip a little with a small screwdriver. You can remove the ferrite bead if you like, it makes handling the cable a bit easier, and doesn'​t really affect anything.. The pins come out quite easily, just bend the plastic clip a little with a small screwdriver. You can remove the ferrite bead if you like, it makes handling the cable a bit easier, and doesn'​t really affect anything..
Rivi 57: Rivi 57:
 Then insert the pins back into the connector in new order: Then insert the pins back into the connector in new order:
  
-{{:​momo:​conn_after.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​conn_after.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 The image is not very good, so here's the wires listed from left to right, when connector clips are facing up.. Gray, light blue, pink, brown, white, purple, green, yellow, red, dark blue, black. The pinout page has all these pins explained as well. The image is not very good, so here's the wires listed from left to right, when connector clips are facing up.. Gray, light blue, pink, brown, white, purple, green, yellow, red, dark blue, black. The pinout page has all these pins explained as well.
Rivi 63: Rivi 63:
 Also, the three pin cable going to the steering wheel potentiometer must be flipped, otherwise the steering will be reversed. :) This is quite simple when done on the potentiometer side, just remove and re-insert the connector like this: Also, the three pin cable going to the steering wheel potentiometer must be flipped, otherwise the steering will be reversed. :) This is quite simple when done on the potentiometer side, just remove and re-insert the connector like this:
  
-{{:​momo:​wheel_before.jpg?​direct&640|}} +{{:​momo:​wheel_before.jpg?​direct|}} 
-{{:​momo:​wheel_after.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​wheel_after.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 Now, the wheel itself should be ready, and in theory you could re-assemble it now. However, it's better to just connect all cables and leave the case open for now, in case there is something still wrong.. Don't test it yet, wait until you have modified the pedals! Now, the wheel itself should be ready, and in theory you could re-assemble it now. However, it's better to just connect all cables and leave the case open for now, in case there is something still wrong.. Don't test it yet, wait until you have modified the pedals!
Rivi 72: Rivi 72:
 Now you need to open the Momo pedals. There are a lot of screws on the bottom which all need to be removed. Below you can see a trained professional doing this task: Now you need to open the Momo pedals. There are a lot of screws on the bottom which all need to be removed. Below you can see a trained professional doing this task:
  
-{{:​momo:​trained_professional.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​trained_professional.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 When you have the pedals opened, you can see the wires that are connected to the potentiometers with crimp connectors. Remove all the wires from the pots, then cut the blue and brown wires after the first connector. Solder these together and insulate properly.. Like this: When you have the pedals opened, you can see the wires that are connected to the potentiometers with crimp connectors. Remove all the wires from the pots, then cut the blue and brown wires after the first connector. Solder these together and insulate properly.. Like this:
  
-{{:​momo:​pedal1.jpg?​direct&640|}}  +{{:​momo:​pedal1.jpg?​direct|}}  
-{{:​momo:​pedal2.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​pedal2.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 The newly built wire is connected between the center pins of the potentiometers:​ The newly built wire is connected between the center pins of the potentiometers:​
  
-{{:​momo:​pedal3.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​pedal3.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 The orange and yellow wires are connected to the brake pot, brown and blue wires to the gas pot. Like this: The orange and yellow wires are connected to the brake pot, brown and blue wires to the gas pot. Like this:
  
-{{:​momo:​pedal4.jpg?​direct&640|}}+{{:​momo:​pedal4.jpg?​direct|}}
  
 The image looks really weird again. :) The wire colors from top to bottom in above image are: orange, blue/brown, yellow, brown, blue/brown, blue. The image looks really weird again. :) The wire colors from top to bottom in above image are: orange, blue/brown, yellow, brown, blue/brown, blue.
  • momo/start.txt
  • Viimeksi muutettu: 2019/07/07 18:19
  • / zuikkis